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Information on glass beads,gemstones and jewelry.
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| Czech Glass…Classic and Timeless |
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The glass bead industry in the Czech Republic began to take off in the 1700's when glass makers first imitated, then improved on Venetian techniques of creating glass stones for jewelry. At the time, the Czech Republic (then Bohemia) was a major center for cutting Pyrope Garnets. When German and Venetian glass makers began making red glass by adding gold, the demand for genuine garnets became much smaller. Bohemian glass makers soon learned how to make red glass and adapted the technique, adding glass canes and molds to facilitate the process.
The city of Jablonec and Nisou became the hub of the Czech bead industry, with many factories and craftsmen in neighboring towns. The Czech bead industry began to boom, with salesmen around the world gathering samples of foreign beads to be replicated in Czech glass. Unlike many other glass manufacturers, Czech bead makers were experts on grinding glass to facet it and remove seams created by the glass molds. Czech beads also became known for their beautiful finishes, such as fire polish. In addition to pressed glass beads, Czech bead artisans were also expert at handmade lampworked beads.
By the beginning of the 20th century, the Czech bead business was booming. This boom didn't last however, as World War II began. After the war, Czechoslovakia became a Communist nation, and all of the bead factories became one nationalized company called Jablonex. At this time, many Bohemian glass makers emigrated to Germany and Austria where companies like Swarovski were already established.
After the Communist government was removed in the "Velvet Revolution" of 1989, the Czech bead industry became privatized once again. Along with the classic Czech bead designs still made from old molds, many new designs and finishes continue to be produced and sold throughout the world.
Sources:
Beads of the World, by Peter Francis, Jr. ©1999 Schiffer Publishing Ltd.
Beads: An Exploration of Bead Traditions Around the World, by Janet Coles & Robert Budwig ©1997 Simon & Schuster
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| Swarovski Crystals |
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The Swarovski company has over one hundred years of experience producing the world's finest man-made crystal. Their beads are unmatched in quality and brilliance. An ever-growing variety of colors, shapes and finishes is available.
In 1895, a young Austrian glass cutter named Daniel Swarovski invented a grinding machine that could produce large numbers of high-quality decorative stones. Today, the flawless shapes of Swarovski crystals are achieved through precision cutting techniques developed by the company. The resulting facet angles are sharp and microscopically identical, giving the beads exceptional sparkle. No competitor has come close to replicating the superior cuts of these Austrian crystals.
Another factor that sets Swarovski crystal apart is the 32% lead content. This qualifies it as "fully leaded crystal". Combined with quartz sand, soda, potash and other minerals, the lead enhances the natural spectrum and increases the weight, brilliance, and prismatic qualities of the crystal. Although lead can be a toxic substance, wearing leaded crystal jewelry does not pose a health risk.
The Swarovski company has been very successful in replicating the hues of semi-precious & precious gemstones. The vibrant, sparkling colors include Amethyst, Alexandrite, Aquamarine, Citrine, Emerald, Garnet, Ruby, Sapphire, Tanzanite and Topaz, along with hundreds of other colors & variations. In addition, some beads receive a special, permanent coating, which enhances the extraordinary color and reflective quality. Often the coating is only applied to half of the bead, but if the color and coating name is followed by "2X", both halves of the crystal have been treated.
Transparent finishes are applied to both clear and colored crystal. They include:
- Aurore Boreale or "AB", the most popular Swarovski coating. AB coating is iridescent, & gives a pale rainbow effect. A clear crystal may appear slightly golden, with blue and pink highlights.
- Satin, a coating that gives a crystal bead a soft, special sheen. Satin finish is also known as Hematite when applied to Jet crystal beads.
Opaque coatings are often applied over clear crystal on only one half of the bead. They have a separate effect when viewed on the surface of the bead versus through the crystal of the uncoated side. They include:
- Comet Argent Light, also known as "CAL": a bright silver finish. When applied as 2X, it shines like sterling silver that will never tarnish.
- Vitrail: silvery on the surface, shining with dark watermelon hues when viewed through the crystal, depending on how the light hits.
- Heliotrope: although it appears as a dull grayish color on the outside, it sparkles inside with deep purples, blues and greens.
- Tabac: a subdued, dark golden copper finish.
- Aurum: a bright golden coating, made from real gold. It is most often found as 2X, since its outside surface is stunning.
Content provided in part by: www.swarovskioptik.at & www.2bead.com.
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| Nature's Finest Beads |
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Beads are the oldest and most universal art form. Beads have been used throughout the ages and in virtually every culture, not simply as adornment but as an expression of social circumstances, political actions, or religious beliefs. Beads have also been widely used as a form of currency; as a symbolic representation of curative power; and as protection in the form of a talisman. Our ancient ancestors used readily available raw materials such as bone, horn, teeth, ivory, stones, nuts, seeds, shell, wood and a variety of plant and insect resins as beads. By using these natural materials, man created all styles of artistic ornamentation for himself. The variety was vast and ranged from headdresses, hats, caps, hair combs, earrings, and necklaces to bow quivers, waist belts, breast ornaments, skirts, cloaks, and shoes.
Some of the natural materials that have inspired generations to create beautiful and unique wearable art are described here.
Bone: Bone has been used as ornamentation for as long as man has been a hunting. Humans have been creative in their use of teeth, horn, claws, tusks, quills, feathers, and bones. Bone has a clean, white and smooth surface that can be easily carved, drilled, inlayed, and dyed thus allowing it to be turned into an object of great beauty. A variety of designs can be created from bone which makes it a versatile and satisfying medium to work with. Today, bone beads come in a vast assortment of shapes including bicones, saucers, sticks, rice, ovals, heishi, nuggets, cubes, animal fetishes, donuts, rounds, flat discs, tubes, and many other fun designs.
Nuts & Seeds: Nutshells and seeds provided the raw materials for the earliest beads. Fruit seeds and walnut shells are still popular bead materials and are still used today in some cultures for the making of prayer beads. Jewelry and other adornments made of organic materials such as these are rarely found in archaeological sites because of their fragile nature. Beads made from nuts, like the kukui nut, have thick shells which allows for deep and ornate carving. Other nut types include the pelinut, bettlenut and edjok nut. Beads made from seeds are also quite versatile and popular. Two popular seeds are sibucau seeds and pakalet seeds. Nut and seed beads range in shape from oval, nugget, round, cube, diamond, bicone, flat oval, disc, and tube.
Wood: Like other raw materials, man has used wood to craft beads from the earliest beginnings. The shapes and designs of wood beads range from simple and plain to incredibly intricate. The textures and colors of various woods add to their beauty. Colors vary from purest white to ebony, and textures range from porous to grained and patterned. The selection of wood beads is immense. Craftsmen throughout the world explore each piece of wood and find in it its unique beauty whether they work with bamboo, palm wood, rosewood, pine, cork, or any of the other softwoods or hardwoods. Their creations are objects of art to be treasured.
Shell: Like most of the other natural materials available to our ancestors, shell was a versatile and easily accessible material to be used for personal adornment. The earliest known beads, made of teeth and shell, were found in a cave in France where Neanderthal man had lived 38,000 years ago. Today, shell takes on many forms, including beads and pendants and ranges in size, shape and color. Mother-of-Pearl is one of nature's most lustrous and luxurious materials and has become a popular jewelry-making material. Some of the unique and fun shapes of shell include teardrop, oval, rectangle, round, donut, flat round, heishi, and other unusual and unique styles.
Pearls: The natural pearl, from earliest times, was among the most prized of all jewels, due in part to the risks endured by divers to collect these precious gems from the sea and the scarcity of the gems themselves. Freshwater pearls, also called river pearls, have been found in various rivers around the world for more than 2,000 years. A cultured pearl is born from a process that stimulates pearl production. Cultured pearls have improved in procedure and quality since they were first produced in 1896 in Japan. The quality, price and value of pearls are determined by five criteria; lustre, surface, shape, color, and size. The high lustre, smooth surfaced round pearl is considered to be more valuable than the low luster, irregular pearl. Shape and color are generally a matter of taste rather than a matter of quality.
Many of the beads used today in contemporary jewelry designs come from these natural materials made popular by our ancestors.
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Precious & Semi Precious Stones and Fossils Gemstone Chart
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Agate(s)
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Cuprite-Malachite
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Pearl
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Alexandrite
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Diamond
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Pectolite
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Amazonite
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Dinosaur Bone
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Peridot
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Amber
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Drusy
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Peruvian Opal
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Amethyst
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Emerald
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Petoskey Stone
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Ammolite
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Garnet
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Picasso Marble
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Ammonite
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Gaspeite
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Poppy Jasper
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Aquamarine
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Gibeon Meteorite
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Quantum Quattro
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Australian Tiger's Eye
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Hematite
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Quartz (Smoky)
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Aventurine
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Iolite
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Rhodochrosite
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Azurite-Malachite
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Jade
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Rose Quartz
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Beryl
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Jasper
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Ruby
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Bloodstone
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Kono Dolomite
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Ruby in Zoisite
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Blue Opal (Peruvian)
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Labradorite
(Spectrolite)
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Rutilated Quartz
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Bone
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Lapis Lazuli
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Sapphire
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Boulder Opal
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Larimar
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Spectrolite
(Labradorite)
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Carnelian
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Malachite
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Stone Canyon
Jasper
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Chalcedony
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Meteorite
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Sugilite
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Charoite
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Montana Agate
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Tanzanite
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Chinese Writing
Stone
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Moonstone
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Tiffany Stone
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Chrome Diopside
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Morgan Hill
Poppy Jasper
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Tiger's Eye
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Chrysoberyl
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Onyx
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Topaz
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Chrysocolla
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Opal, Boulder Opal
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Tourmaline
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Chrysoprase
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Opalite
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Tourmalinated
Quartz
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Citrine
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Orthoceras
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Turquoise
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Coral
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Palm Wood
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Variscite
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Zircon
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| Shells |
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For thousands of years, human beings have adorned themselves with shells. Many cultures of the world have believed that delicate shell shapes bring fertility, good fortune and safe travel. In today's urban world, shells represent the essence of summer with their organic, curving forms reminding us of ocean waves and sandy beaches.
Many shells have natural perforations and can simply be strung the way they are, while others require modification to enhance their best features and to make them wearable. Shells with iridescent inner layers are often ground into thin veneers and used for mosaic-like inlay, while thick shells are often carved with cameos or patterns. Most shells are porous and accept dyes and varnishes well, which can enhance their natural beauty.
Creatures called mollusks produce shells to protect their soft invertebrate bodies. The mollusk group is very diverse, with over 100,000 species alive today. Mollusks that produce wearable shells include univalves: those with a single shell, like snails, and bivalves: those with a hinged shell like clams, mussels, scallops and oysters. All mollusks have specialized organ tissue called mantle, which secretes calcium carbonate to produce the protective shell. The inner lining of the shell is especially smooth to protect the delicate invertebrate body from irritation.
The most popular univalve shells used for personal adornment include cowry, abalone, conus, turbo, olive and everlasting shell. Cowry shells are especially well known as they can be found all over the world. These naturally glossy shells come in many colors; one familiar variation is a speckled brown on creamy white. A cowry shell starts out looking like a traditional snail shell and develops into its unique shape as the mollusk matures. These shells are often drilled and strung whole or the backs of the shells are sliced off so the beads will lie flat. Since they were portable, durable and difficult to replicate, cowry shells were used as currency by ancient Chinese, Indian and African cultures.
Another popular univalve shell used for personal adornment is abalone. The scientific name for abalone, "Haliotis" means "ear of the sea" and refers to the flattened shape of the shell. The rough outer portion of the abalone is ground down to reveal the stunning inner layers of the shell. The nacreous inner surface is a silvery blue-green that sometimes contains swirls of pink, orange and lavender. The most vibrantly colored species of abalone is called "paua" and comes from the waters around New Zealand.
Other bivalve mollusk shells used for personal adornment include species of mussel and clam. Many mussels and clams have brightly colored shells and are simply drilled and worn. One famous bivalve mollusk is the "quahog clam" whose white and purple shell are carved into Wampum by Northeastern Native Americans.
The most popular part of many bivalve shells is "mother-of-pearl"- the nacreous inner lining. As the mollusk matures, the inner surface of the shell becomes coated with iridescent or pearly-colored nacre, the same material that forms pearls. The rough, plain outer coating of the shell is ground down or cut off, leaving only the luminescent inner layer. Thick layers of mother-of-pearl may be formed into beads, while thinner layers are cut into small pieces and fitted into mosaic beads and pendants. Some mother-of-pearl comes from marine pearl-bearing oysters such as Silver Lip, Black Lip or Gold Lip, but the vast majority comes from freshwater pearl-bearing mussels.
Content provided in part by:
Pearls: A Natural History by Landman et al., www.pauashell.co.nz, www.marinefriends.com
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| The Mysteries of Dichroic Glass |
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"Dichroic" is defined as the property of having more than one color, especially when viewed from different angels. Dichroic glass is produced by a process called "thin film physics". Hand-rolled sheet glass is fastened to the top of a vacuum chamber. The chamber is heated to approximately 300 degrees and after a vacuum is created, metals such as titanium, silicon, and magnesium are vaporized in a crucible by electron beams. The vapors rise and grow on the glass as metal crystals. The resulting color is determined by the individual oxide composition.
Now here's the magic! One color is reflected from the glass surface and a separate, completely different color is shown when light is allowed to pass through the glass. Dichroic color applied to black glass will reflect all the light and give you a dynamic metallic color. The same Dichroic color applied to clear glass will absorb and reflect light giving an ever-shifting rainbow of color.
Dynamic, alluring, and magical…another wonderful property of dichroic glass is that no two pieces are ever exactly alike. The color will vary like the dye lots in some hand-dyed yarns and the sizes may vary because each bead is made one at a time by hand.
Content provided by Paula Radke Dichroics
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| Agate |
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When you think of Quartz gemstones, what comes to mind? Is it the icy sparkle of Crystal Quartz? Or the delicate pink of Rose Quartz? Did you know that this diverse group of gemstones also includes Amethyst, Tiger's Eye, Citrine, Aventurine, Smoky Quartz and Chalcedony? The stones classified as Chalcedony also represent a diverse group. They include Agate, Fire Agate, Chrysoprase, Jasper, Onyx, Carnelian and Bloodstone. The first of these, Agate is a beautiful and varied classification of stones.
Agates are formed inside cavities of volcanic rock where either volcanic gas created pockets in the lava, or where limbs of trees or other organic matter decomposed. Unlike Rock Crystal which has a large crystalline structure, micro crystals of agate are formed inside these volcanic pockets by silica-rich water washing into the cavity. Over time, layers of chalcedony and quartz are formed, creating concentric bands of agate. Many agates are found with hollow interiors because the layers of agate simply have not filled the entire space. In these cases, there are often crystals of amethyst, smoky quartz or crystal quartz in the agate hollow. These sugar-like crystals are known as "Drusy" and are often used in jewelry unpolished to highlight their sparkly nature.
Some agates, such as Blue Lace Agate, Banded Agate and Botswana Agate have rings or scallops of color. Others, like Tree Agate and Moss Agate have delicate fern or tree-like patterns that are created from the presence of iron ore in the crystals. There is also Mexican Agate, which has "eyes" rather than bands of color.
Agate can be purchased in many forms. Egg-shaped geodes with agate and drusy centers are often cut as bookends and other objects, or carved into decorative bowls. Agate bowls were popular collector's items in Renaissance Europe, and the Louvre has a large collection of them. Slices of Agate make beautiful pendants, coasters or even panes in stained-glass windows. Agate is also the traditional stone for cameos, with many agates having color ranges from white to black with all shades of brown in between, allowing for detailed carvings. Since Agate is a hard stone, it can be cut and faceted into all sorts of shapes for beads. Round striped agates evoke glass marbles and larger slab-shaped beads showcase the intricate patterns or translucent layers of stone.
Sources:
www.gemstone.org
http://wikipedia.org
Gems and Precious Stones, edited by Kennie Lyman, ©1986 Simon & Schuster Go shopping
Smithsonian Handbooks Gemstones, by Cally Hall, ©2002 DK
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Quartz Family

Chalcedony Family

Agate
Bloodstone
Carnelian
Chalcedony
Chrysoprase
Fire Agate
Jasper
Onyx / Sard / Sardonyx
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| Gemstones & Birthstones |
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A gemstone is the naturally occurring crystalline form of a mineral, which is desirable for its beauty, valuable in its rarity, and durable enough to be enjoyed for generations. They come in a wide variety of colors and shapes, and are divided into two categories - precious and semiprecious. The value depends on four factors: the beauty of the gemstone, its rarity, its hardness, and the manner in which it is cut and polished.
The most popular colored gemstones have been designated as birthstones. Birthstone jewelry has become popular as gifts, and people have come to believe that wearing a birthstone protects them and brings them good luck. Originally, birthstones were linked to the signs of the zodiac, but eventually they became more associated with the calendar mont
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